Understanding the Mohs scale: a guide to choosing the best gemstones for jewellery

When it comes to purchasing jewellery in the UK, one of the most critical factors to consider is the durability of the gemstones. Whether you’re selecting an engagement ring, a statement necklace or an elegant bracelet, understanding the Mohs scale can help you make an informed decision. This guide will delve into the Mohs scale, explaining its importance, how it works and why it matters in the jewellery business. When we are designing jewellery here at Flutterby, we take into consideration the Mohs scale and the hardness of the stones. As you’ll discover here, that is why, as UK jewellery designers, we use certain stones, such as fluorite only in necklaces and earrings rather than in bracelets. Necklaces and earrings tend to experience less contact with potentially damaging surfaces than bracelets and rings.

What is the Mohs Scale?

The Mohs scale is a standard used to measure the hardness of minerals, including gemstones, on a scale from 1 to 10. Developed by German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs in 1812, this scale ranks minerals based on their ability to resist scratching. The scale begins with talc, the softest mineral, rated at 1, and ends with diamond, the hardest, rated at 10.

For anyone in the jewellery business or customers looking to invest in fine jewellery, understanding the Mohs scale can help determine the longevity and maintenance requirements of different gemstones.

Why is the Mohs Scale Important in Jewellery?

• Durability: Gemstones that rank higher on the Mohs scale are less prone to scratches and damage making them ideal for everyday jewellery like rings and bracelets.
• Maintenance: Softer gemstones require more care and regular maintenance, which could impact the overall cost of owing such jewellery.
• Suitability: Certain gemstones are more suited to specific types of jewellery depending on their hardness. For example, a gemstone with a lower Mohs rating may work well for earrings or pendants where they are less likely to experience impact. The hardness of the stone may also influence the design of a piece of jewellery. We often design jewellery for everyday wear with harder stones or metal around a softer stone to provide protection.

Gemstones and their Mohs Scale Ratings. What are the best gemstones for jewellery?

• Diamond – 10. Diamonds are the hardest naturally occurring substance, making them a timeless choice for engagement rings and other high-wear jewellery. Their unmatched durability ensures they remain sparkling and scratch-free for generations. Diamonds are often the cornerstone of the jewellery business, especially in the UK where diamonds remain a top seller.
• Corundum (Sapphire and Ruby) – 9. Sapphires and rubies below to the corundum family and rank just below diamonds on the Mohs scale. Their exceptional hardness makes them ideal for rings and bracelets. Additionally, their vibrant colours and brilliance make them popular choices.
• Topaz – 8. Topaz is a durable gemstone suitable for everyday jewellery. It is available in a wide range of colours, including blue, yellow, and pink. We love using blue topaz in particular in our jewellery designs. We know how much our customers fall in love with the stunning colours topaz has to offer!
• Quartz (Amethyst, Citrine, Smokey Quartz) 7. Quartz is a very versatile gemstone group that we use a lot in our designs at Flutterby Jewellery. It includes popular colourful stones like Amethyst and Citrine. With a Mohs rating of 7, quartz is durable enough for regular wear but may require occasional polishing to maintain its shine.
• Feldspar (Moonstone and Labradorite) 6-6.5. Moonstone and Labradorite are known, and loved, for their unique optical properties. They are highly desirable with our customers loving the wide variety of shades of colours in each stone. We love showing customers how these stones pick up the colours in their outfits. The same piece of labradorite gemstone can look pink and purple next to one piece of clothing and moments later it can look blue and green when placed next to a different colour. With a rating of 6-6.5, they are slightly softer but we still love using them in earrings and necklaces.
• Fluorite – 4. As we mentioned above, this is a softer gemstone which requires extra care. Its vibrant hues make it popular in jewellery but we recommend you choose pieces carefully, thinking about the frequency and type of wear you wish to have.

How the Mohs Scale Impacts Jewellery Design

The jewellery business in the UK thrives on creating pieces that are not only beautiful but also practical. It is a philosophy we believe in here at Flutterby, although we would add ‘affordable’ to that list! So we are mindful of the Mohs scale when we are designing and making jewellery to offer you.

• Everyday wear jewellery: For rings, bracelets and other items worn daily, gemstones with a Mohs rating of 7 or higher are preferred. Diamonds, sapphires and rubies dominate this category due to their resilience.
• Statement pieces: For necklaces, brooches and earrings, where the risk of scratching is minimal, softer gemstones like opal or fluorite can be used. These pieces are often regarded as jewellery for special occasions.
• Custom designs: Customers seeking bespoke jewellery often rely on expert advice to balance aesthetic appeal with durability. The Mohs scale helps you to make more informed decisions.

Caring for Your Gemstone Jewellery

Proper care is essential to maintain the beauty and longevity of your jewellery. Here are some tips based on the Mohs scale:

• Harder Gemstones (Mohs 10-7) These gemstones are more resistant to scratches but can still accumulate dirt. Regular cleaning with a soft brush and soapy water will keep them sparkling.
• Softer Gemstones (Mohs 1-6) Handle with care to avoid scratches. Store them separately in padded jewellery boxes and avoid exposing them to harsh chemicals.

Popular Trends in the UK Jewellery Market

The UK jewellery market is constantly evolving, with trends influencing customer preferences. Sustainable and ethical sourcing of gemstones is increasingly important, and the Mohs scale can play a role in promoting longevity and reducing waste. Customers are leaning towards gemstones that combine beauty, durability and ethical sourcing.

Another trend is the growing demand for customer and personalised jewellery. Whether it’s an engagement ring or a family heirloom, customers are keen on selecting gemstones that resonate with their personal style and story. Understanding the Mohs scale helps jewellers recommend the best options based on the intended use of the piece.

so finally…

The Mohs scale is more than just a scientific measure of mineral hardness; it’s a practical tool for us in the jewellery business and our customers to help in the design and selection of gemstone jewellery. By understanding the scale and its implications, you can make informed decisions about the durability, care and suitability of different gemstones.